15929969460001312637261000Standard Recordobject-119116170206270821716039860420001702062268047fitz-onlineadlib-object-119116https://data.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/id/object/119116b0ad8f12-89e4-3e5d-aefc-d83dfe148f8c9referenceterm-109541adlib-term-109541d25b4add-748d-3b6f-9789-d3969289ade7jewellerygreen, Partabgarh, Indiareferenceterm-91170adlib-term-91170d49ca0b4-ccae-3039-afe0-882c186cff25glassreferenceterm-39593adlib-term-39593e3e2a3f8-2433-3f63-9bcf-e776644d312dgoldPartredreferenceterm-40902adlib-term-40902ec39a220-e629-3548-92f0-14937d5d3167leatherCasereferenceterm-118722adlib-term-1187224f4800f9-d84e-3f97-a3d0-d00e18216deasilkCase LiningLengthcm39.5NecklaceWidthcm2BroochApplied ArtsGold and Partabgarh green glass. The necklace is composed of a flexible, woven gold strip, from which are suspended four gold leaves, each attached to a shamrock-shaped pendant of Partabgarh green glass, with chased and pierced gold inlay depicting plants and animals, mounted in gold with rope-twist border. At centre back there is an octagonal clasp of the same materials. The brooch, en suite with the pendants, has a pin-fastening across the back. In original red leather case, the silk lining of the lid of which is printed in gold beneath a crown 'PHILLIPS. / 23 COCKSPUR ST / LONDON'14referenceexhibition-3287adlib-exhibition-3287c4b6d853-3af1-3cdf-a094-3732a4a70ee2Designers and Jewellery 1850-1940: Jewellery and Metalwork from The Fitzwilliam MuseumM.18 & A & B-19831accession numberM.18 & A & B-1983119116priref119116urihttps://data.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/id/object/119116https://data.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/id/object/119116RPmarkPHILLIPS./23 COCKSPUR ST/LONDON beneath a crowninside case lidPHILLIPS./23 COCKSPUR ST/LONDONprintreferenceagent-149638adlib-agent-1496387376d833-d0a7-3be0-916e-9c892b7a24d8The Fitzwilliam MuseumGiven by Mrs J. Hull Grundyreferenceagent-166456adlib-agent-166456b333b642-5f27-39ee-9d99-2f4b88d4deecHull Grundy, J., Mrs198319831983givenEntry date: 1983-03-1418551855CE1855circa1855186911869CE18691869makerreferenceagent-185132adlib-agent-18513253882bc5-557c-3839-a50b-396b180c6d07Phillips BrothersThe glass, Indian; 19th century. The mounts, English, London
The firm of Phillips Brothers was one of the most productive and successful London jewellers of the nineteenth century. Their range and variety was unsurpassed and included jewellery in the Italian archaeological style, the Renaissance Revival style (copying the jewels depicted in drawings by artist Hans Holbein, 1497/8-1543), as well as pieces inspired by the jewellery of India and Scandinavia. Phillips was also influenced by the objects discovered by Sir Henry Layard during his excavations at Nimrud, an ancient Assyrian city of Upper Mesopotamia (near modernday Mosul, Iraq).
Phillips was also one of the first to popularise Indian jewellery, taking advantage of the growing interest in the art of India after the magnificent display of Indian craftsmanship at the Great Exhibition (1851) and the publication of Indian designs in Owen Jones’s 'Grammar of Ornament' (1856). Phillips imported particular elements from India and mounted them into settings made to suit Western styles of dress and fashions. The most commonly imported elements were small plaques of Indian glass and gold work, known as theva work (seen here), first made predominantly in the region of Pratapgarh, Rajasthan.referenceterm-120127adlib-term-120127ee2ddbd4-503c-30f5-8cf9-3c2d121bd315Victoria Ireferenceterm-106216adlib-term-106216825b8379-ec94-388e-9a59-624e40c090d0literalEnglandEnglandcountryLondonreferencemedia-206116adlib-media-206116a5f1a062-4b41-341c-ae3e-3e2c19825fe8jpegaa/aa37/M_18_20_26_20A_20_26_20B_1983_1_201712_amt49_dc2.jpg1heightpixels1025widthpixels96016162706462501imagejpegaa/aa37/mid_M_18_20_26_20A_20_26_20B_1983_1_201712_amt49_dc2.jpg1heightpixels534widthpixels50016162706462501imagejpegaa/aa37/M_18_20_26_20A_20_26_20B_1983_1_201712_amt49_dc2.jpg1heightpixels1025widthpixels96016162706462501imagejpegaa/aa37/preview_M_18_20_26_20A_20_26_20B_1983_1_201712_amt49_dc2.jpg1heightpixels267widthpixels25016162706462501image0media
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imagereferenceterm-77412adlib-term-77412734fd249-5f4e-3254-90d8-731459e25397necklacebroochhistory noteWartski, Grafton Street, London, W1referenceagent-149638adlib-agent-1496387376d833-d0a7-3be0-916e-9c892b7a24d8The Fitzwilliam Museumreferencepublication-8550adlib-publication-85509adcd106-6c02-3203-a2c9-35069d63e396Designers & Jewellery 1850-1940. Jewellery and Metalwork from the Fitzwilliam MuseumIllustrated, see fig. 1a, p. 51.50-55referencepublication-200001976adlib-publication-200001976b39b253a-9568-3c27-afd9-bfe5b19c8f71Robert Phillips, Underestimated Victorian jewellerreferencepublication-5367adlib-publication-536775f855b5-e386-3b2f-b194-7bf4f01a9ccdFine jewels and jewels for the collectorreferencepublication-5388adlib-publication-5388d6e1d781-c98e-3236-9373-43eb9a2392aaFine Antique and Modern Jewelleryreferenceterm-77412adlib-term-77412734fd249-5f4e-3254-90d8-731459e25397necklacenecklaceobject
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